It’s been, unbelievably, six months since our trip to the beautiful town of Esperance. We would love to go again and if given the opportunity, would take our time getting there and enjoying the varying landscapes and locations along the way,
The trip between Esperance and Perth is long – around seven hours. I know some prefer to do it in a day. However, on our trip we decided to take it easy and divide the trip in half. Not only are overnight stops safer for the driver, but we end up discovering some interesting and out of the way places. That was how we ended up staying at Hollands Track Farm B&B.
After reading about life at Hollands Track, we decided to make it a two night stay. The golden landscape was a contrast to the beachside holiday we enjoyed at Esperance, and different from the life we know at home. Life in the suburbs makes you ignorant to country living and Hollands Track was the opportunity for a different experience.
Heading back from Esperance, make the turn at Lake King and onto the Newdegate-Ravensthorpe Road.
We stopped in Newdegate on a hot Monday and the only places open were the IGA, roadhouse and the swimming pool, which was full of local kids having a blast. After looking around – the museum was closed but looks worth a view if you’re there during opening hours – we turned onto Lake Grace-Newdegate Road and it was a short drive to the turn off to the farm. It’s well-signed and our host, Cathy, had provided great directions in her email.
Accommodation and facilities
At some farmstays, you are in a purpose-built self-contained chalet, separated from much of the workings of the farm. This is not the case at Hollands Track. The bedroom is located within the farm house and you see the comings and goings of the household. The room is clean and tidy, with a separate bathroom.
Coming from the city, if a stranger is in your house, it’s possibly a home invasion. I felt a little awkward being in another person’s home but the Kelly family were so kind and welcoming and their hospitality is central to the enjoyment of your stay.
The accommodation is not self-contained so you will need to eat in town. We were set up to be self-sufficient. Cathy kindly let us borrow their kitchen for making sandwiches and salads and we fired up the chiminea for cooking a BBQ. We had our Engels on board, so stored all our food there. Cathy’s breakfasts were wonderful, with cereal, cooked breakfast options, toast and fruit. You won’t leave the farm hungry.
Things to do
The area is great for exploring and there is plenty of history and bush landscape to enjoy. Here, you find your own fun. For us that included exploring the many 4WD tracks in neighbouring Silver Wattle Reserve, discovering changing landscapes and watching wildlife go about their business. We saw emus, kangaroos and a bungarra wandering across the road, making its way to a nearby bush turkey nest in search of eggs.
Hollands Track runs from Coolgardie to Broomehill which can be followed in sections in either 2WD or 4WD. We did not travel the track itself but there is information available for those keen to do the trip, which sounds like a lot of fun.
The Kellys let us explore their farm, with a track taking us alongside vast paddocks ready for harvest. They are doing great work in soil rehabilitation, which they talked about passionately. We drove out to the paddock where they were harvesting and watched in awe as the harvester made its way up and down the expanse of grain, again feeling like city slickers and very ignorant of a life so different from our own.
Had we stayed longer, we would have taken the opportunity to explore the area further. Newdegate is nearby if you need supplies from town or want to learn more about the history of the area and the track, or you can take a day trip to Lake Grace which takes you past the salt lakes (they would be an amazing photo opportunity if you are there at the right time).
At the end of the day, we sat back, enjoyed a wine on the verandah and admired the setting sun over the vast expanse of crop.
Book your stay
We enjoyed our stay at Hollands Track B&B and recommend it for travelers wanting a stopover on their way to or from Esperance and would like to experience a slice of country living. You can book by contacting Cathy via the website.